Stage 1 - hold the head in a pair of pliers and twist them whilst holding the figure
Stage 2 - the head then comes off with a clean break.
Stage 3 - use a pin to help locate the point for your drill.
Stage 4 - drill a hole in the body.
Stage 5 - superglue a piece of brass wire (or paper clip) in position.
I tend to use a much longer piece of wire and cut it down as it easier to locate and glue.
Prussian Officer ready for a new head and Saxon Officer - head donor - ready for his conversion.
Stage 6 - using the pin locate the drill point on the new head and then drill a hole. Cut down the wire and test whether there is a good fit between the new head and body. If not, drill some more or cut some more wire away and superglue the head on the pin.
Original Prussian Officer, new Prussian Officer and original Saxon Officer,
Only to be based to be the finished product.
Top Tips! Apart from anything else, they have made me realise the extent to which I've been doing these things the hard way. Many thanks! WM
ReplyDeleteThe pliers twist to get a clean head break is impressive, but somehow I just know if I did it my soldier would become a corkscrew. I'll try it - I'm most impressed of all that the twist system seems to result in both bits being reusable - I cut heads off with a razor saw, and I lose too much metal to be able to use the remainder bits. I'll definitely try it - many thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi
ReplyDeleteThank you both for your comments. This 'head twist' method works with the figures I have tried (the recast S range figures). Helmets, Kepis, Shakos and peaked caps have presented no problem. I haven't tried it with broad brimmed hats and I could see that the brim could be squeezed and misshapen. The figure also has to have a 'neck'. I also have to confess that on a couple of figures I have had to give the body or the neck a quick file. Sometimes you get '2 collars' one on the head the other on the body.
If you look at some of the 'modern figures', particularly those firing, the head is correctly positioned with the cheek on the stock of the rifle and I can't see how you would remove the head except with a saw or stanley knife.